Today’s Chef in the Spotlight is no stranger amongst the gourmands in Kuala Lumpur. She has really taken the local dining scene by storm. Petite and demure, she is famous for being the chef with the “larger than life” personality (and voice), and the force behind that French bistro in Petaling Jaya, known simply as Bistro à Table. She is Chef Isadora Chai, and this is our interview with her..

1.What were your favorite foods growing up?

Stodgy British comfort food – Beef Wellington, Lobster Thermidor and smoked oysters!

2.When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?

When I was on holiday in Italy and assimilated with the locals, I was influenced by their joie de vivre when it came to working for what they were passionate about. I realized that when things weren’t meant to be, you really feel like you are fighting an uphill battle when it came to work. So I promptly gave up my business suits and walked straight into the commercial kitchen when I returned to Sydney.

3.Where and when did your career in food begin?

I have always been catering for more than 10 years in the private kitchens of some very well-heeled clients in Sydney.

4.If you didn’t become a chef, what would you be?
I would be a litigator sending out legal love letters to EVERYONE.

5.Who/what has shaped your cooking the most over the years?

I don’t know… most of my food now is self-taught or self-discovered. I came from a scientific background so I am constantly experimenting in the kitchen to come up with the wackiest creations.

6.Please tell us a little bit more, about this scientific background you just mentioned..

Double degree triple majors in Biotechnology, biochemistry and marketing. I have an honors thesis in stem cell research and was a three time college/ university scholar if you need proof that i have a semblance of grey matter. :p

7.What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
My Swiss Pacojet – which churns ice cream in 10 minutes and my Japanese knives.

8.What influences your cooking style and particularly your menu?

My style is highly experimental and best described as polarizing – you either love it or hate it. I get terribly bored of my own menu, which is why I tend to change it gradually every day. It is a reflection of what I prefer to eat. I aim to be daring which is probably not very business-oriented. For example, I hardly every serve chicken unless I am in the mood of eating chicken.

However, I am most influenced by what I can get my hands on in the market which dictates what is served on that day. I tend to start getting excited about a particular ingredient and build the dish from there. Sometimes, it happens during the dinner service itself – imagine a mini Iron Chef episode at Bistro à Table which pretty much happens on a daily basis.

9.What is your favorite secret ingredient and why?

There are three elements commonly found in the BAT kitchen – butter, cream and ego. Ask any French chef and they too will agree.

10.What is the one rule or value you try to instil in all of your staff?
Discipline. I was trained the old fashioned way in small restaurants where you pretty much make everything on the plate – from the stocks, cakes and even the little silly garnishes. So even on a quiet night, there is always something to do in the restaurant. And in this line of work, if you party hard, you bloody well have to still function the next day for work, there are no excuses.

11.If I’m trying to watch my weight and I’m eating at your restaurant, what am I ordering to eat?

Either go for the Fassone sirloin from Piedmont, which is virtually fat-free but oh so tender and flavorful or the fish – we only serve limited amounts of fresh fish. Nothing comes into the kitchen frozen.

12.If its my birthday and i am being super-indulgent and the sky’s the limit, what am I ordering to eat from your restaurant?

You should attend one of BAT’s infamous themed degustation dinners. In March, we are doing Alice in Wonderland where elements of Lewis Carroll’s novel will be served on that night. Every month has a different theme, so call in to check.

13.What was the most challenging meal you had to make? Why?
I once had to cook a 5 course meal from an office kitchenette. It went well but never again.

14.What was your worst restaurant disaster?
When the oven did not work and I had to superheat a covered wok to use it as a makeshift oven.

15.What is your least favorite food?
Chicken – to me, the most boring meat in the world.

16.Tell us something funny about yourself.
I really don’t give a rat’s arse about the way I conduct myself in my own restaurant, to the extent where sometimes I scare customers (but I think my staff forewarn them anyway).

17.What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
International restaurants are scaling back the tinsel and are getting more casual, serving old school comfort food.

18.When you are not eating at your own restaurant…you are eating at?
You can probably see me along with the rest of the other head chefs stuffing our faces at Jalan Alor, which is the only decent place serving cooked food at two in the morning.

19.Tell us something about yourself or a skill you possess that nobody knows;)
I can sleep on any surface, anywhere and anytime on call. This superhuman power is very useful on long-haul flights.

20.What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
Simple white bean stew and seared buffalo kidneys in Piedmont. It was simple, fresh and so flavourful. It must be the water in that region.

21.What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
You do not need to follow recipes to a T. Improvising is fun.

22.What do you eat when you are home?
Fromage!

23.What’s a basic cooking technique that you couldn’t possibly live without?
Steaming -the simplest and most efficient way of cooking something flavourful.

24.You obviously rely a lot on your sense of smell. Why do you think that an educated sense of smell is important to developing a good dish?
Actually, I rely on my sense on taste and feel. You must really understand individual ingredients when you are combining them and how they react with one another. Then the second factor is texture and the way it plays in your mouth. When you satisfy both factors, you achieve a wonderful gastronomic experience within yourself.

25.Finally, what is your advice for all those new, up and coming Chefs out there?

Just because you came from cooking school, does not make you a qualified chef. Experience counts for 98% of your worth. Start humble and work your way to the top, the old fashioned way!

*All photos courtesy of Bistro à Table 

We settle down to dinner at the spanking new Spasso Milano at Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, and as we chat and enjoy the wine, the waiter places in front of my plate, an almost lethally large portion of Risotto Alla Milanese served as the classic Risotto and dressed generously with a fragrant aroma of Saffron. I keep digging into the communal platter until, at last, there is nothing left to shovel. I knew, I was done for.

But if I was going to die, this was absolutely the way to go. I had already sampled Spasso Milano Pavilion KL’s Scamorza Affumicata & Speck Pizza – I’m talking artisanal pizza with Smoked Scamorza Cheese and air-dried Ham whose craggy appearance belied juicy depths of flavours. Then there was the deliciously sharp tasting Citrus Orange Garoupa Pasta, whose fusilli pasta was thick and toothsome, and thoroughly soaked up the orange sauces and heightened its flavours. The resulting combination when eaten with the fresh and succulent Garoupa was terrific. After that would come more.. the Al Pesto with Prima Fileja, a Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Pine Nut, Parmesan & Pecorino pasta, toss into the warm, vegetal equivalent of a grandmother’s hug. Also a larger than life, Pork Valdostana - Pork Escalope topped with baked Ham and Fontina Cheese which had the comfort of a warm kitchen stool on a cool summer night. If there was any doubt in our minds at all, it was as if Spasso Milano Pavilion KL was telling us that, it was back, and back with a vengeance.

In the end, after the wines, (a fresh and fruity white, the San Angelo Pinot Grigio Toscana Igt - Tuscany, Banfi 2010 and a full structured red – the Barberra D’alba Doc, Pio Cesare, Piedmont, 2008/09) and the desserts that included a Platter of Cheese, Strawberry Martini Fresh Strawberry drizzle with 20 years old Balsamic Vinaigrette, a heavily Alcoholic Tiramisu, and 3 different types of Gelato, I survived. How could I have done otherwise?

I am, however, willing to risk death for a chance not only to eat real, true authentic Italian food but to eat it often. One can never have too much good Italian. Like I’ve said before,  I was going to die, this would absolutely be the way to go. I have long been a fan of Chef Felice’s cooking and will continue to be, for a good while yet. With big guns like Italian Manager Angelo and Italian Chef Felice helming the kitchen, I know I am in good hands.. Spasso Milano Pavilion KL will probably end up being one of my favourite hangout joints. And with the availability of Wifi, why not. Yes, I could end up spending my evenings here, too easily.

Spasso Milano at Pavilion Kuala Lumpur

Flavoured Italian Soda (By San Pellegrino) RM9.80- Pompelmo (Grapefruit), Chinotto (Bitter Citrus Fruit), and a glass of freezing cold Kronenbourg beer

Smoked Salmon Torta served with Mesclun Salad (RM28.00)

The smoked salmon torta was just OK. Not a memorable dish.

Pantesca - Garden leaves, Potato, Cherry Tomato, Caper, Olives, Onion & Basil, all tossed in Oregano Balsamic Vinaigrette (RM21.80)

One has the option of adding either smoked salmon (RM8), pesto flavoured chicken(RM6) or bacon strips(RM6). This salad was a little frail. We were not overly excited about the salad.

 Roasted Wagyu Beef Panini -Wagyu Strip loin, Lettuce, Onion, Tomato & Parmesan, Light Mustard Mayo(RM 32.00)

The meaty wagyu was to die for.. but the portion of meat per panini was small, and overpowered by the sauce in the panini. I would have loved mine bursting with Wagyu, but who wouldn’t?

San Angelo Pinot Grigio Toscana Igt - Tuscany, Banfi 2010 and the Barberra D’alba Doc, Pio Cesare, Piedmont, 2008/09

Two great wines that were versatile and complemented the various different dishes we had that night. Of particular note, was the Tuscany Banfi 2010 – an amazing white wine that really brought out the flavours of the dishes especially the speck in our pizza. A fabulous, intense, fruity aroma, followed by a rich, refreshing flavour, and then a clean finish. Well matched indeed.

Scamorza Affumicata & Speck Pizza - Smoked Scamorza Cheese, Smoked & air-dried Ham (RM42.00)

Indiscriminate gluttons and discerning gourmands alike have long been crazy for pizza. But over the last few years, they have elevated their passion to a vocation, sending pizza into a whole new stratosphere of respect. This pizza at Spasso Milano KL, could be one of the best pizzas I’ve eaten in a long time probably due to the tastiness of the speck and the chewy texture of the dough. Speck is a distinctively juniper-flavored ham originally from Tyrol, a region that partially lies in Austria and partially in Italy. Speck’s origins at the intersection of two culinary worlds is reflected in its synthesis of salt-curing and smoking. (That’s probably why Cumi found it too salty.. but no worries, just wash it down with more wine!)

Scamorza is an Italian cow’s milk cheese, similar to mozzarella. I found this stretched curd cheese, rather interesting – extremely tasty and complemented the speck magnificently.

Garoupa Orange - Pan-seared Sweet citrus orange flavor (RM52.00)

This pasta fusilli was cooked al dente.. just right.  The sharp tasting Citrus Orange Garoupa Pasta, whose fusilli pasta was thick and toothsome, and thoroughly soaked up the orange sauces and heightened its flavours was one of my new favourites for the night. The resulting combination when eaten with the fresh and succulent Garoupa was terrific.

Al Pesto with Prima Fileja Pasta - Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Pine Nut, Parmesan & Pecorino (RM32.80)

Pine nuts are one of my favourites when served up with a pesto variation of pasta, and the Al Pesto with Prima Fileja, a Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Pine Nut, Parmesan & Pecorino pasta was comforting indeed – toss into the warm, vegetal equivalent of a grandmother’s hug!

Fileja pasta for sale at Spasso Milano

Fileja is a traditional Calabrese pasta ‘fatta in casa’ (usually made in the home). It is similar to pici (Toscano) and various other regional styles of egg-less pasta that are rolled by hand. This pasta has a starchier and softer texture to it, than the fusilli pasta. After a while, it gets a little heavy, especially eating it with the rich pesto dressing. It’s still a close second to the fusilli pasta dish though.

Risotto Alla Milanese - classic Risotto flavored with Saffron (RM32.00)

Risotto is the ultimate in Italian comfort food – warming, satisfying and incredibly tasty. The risotto at Spasso Milano is to die for! Loads of saffron, and it has the perfect texture. At Spasso the risotto has a rich, creamy texture, with each individual grain of rice standing out clearly and having a hint of a bite, rather than being soft or mushy.

This is my ideal risotto. Some might beg to differ.. Tough!

Pork Valdostana - Pork Escalope topped with baked Ham and Fontina Cheese (RM38.00)

Pork lovers, rejoice! This succulent strip of pork escalope is a real show stopper, especially since it is wrapped and baked in Ham and Fontina cheese. Crazy delicious – pork wrapped in pork.. just wrap your mind around that;)

Strawberry Martini Fresh Strawberry drizzle with 20 years old Balsamic Vinaigrette

The 20 year old balsamic vinaigrette really stole the show. How do you describe an aged balsamic? Sweeter, thicker and more full-bodied. Very impressed with this dessert.

Top Clockwise - Tiramisu, Espresso soaked Savoiardi Biscuit & Mascarpone Cream; Cheeses – smoked scarmoza and pecorino romano ; 3 flavours of Gelato - mango, orange cointreau, casatta and crocantino al rum

smoked scamorza – characteristic pear shape

As with the pastas, artisanal cheeses are also on sale, at Spasso Milano. The smoked Scamorza cheese, is a terrific cheese to have on its own with wine. We learnt that the fresh curd matures in its own whey for several hours to allow acidity to develop by the process of lactose being converted to lactic acid. Artisanal cheesemakers would generally form the cheese into a round shape, and then tie a string around the mass one third of the distance from the top, and hang to dry. The resulting shape is pear-like. This is sometimes referred to as “strangling” the cheese.

As you would have already noticed by now, Spasso Milano has made some changes to its menu. For a start, it is now a strictly non-halal menu, with a myriad of pork dishes to choose from. I for one, love this change. The food is still excellent. For the time being, they have done way with the afternoon buffet lunches that made them famous (antipasti buffet for just RM18++ ), that they used to have at the old Spasso, but who knows.. they might introduce a variation of that, one day soon.

All in all, a great dining experience. Highly recommended!

Valentine’s doesn’t end on February the 15th!

Don’t stop spoiling your loved one once Valentine’s ends, treat him or her to a weekend at The Ritz-Carlton, Kuala Lumpur and be waited upon hand and foot by your personal 24-hour butler.

For the chance to win a complimentary weekend stay (2days, 1 night), in an Executive Deluxe room at The Ritz-Carlton, Kuala Lumpur, inclusive of breakfast for two in César’s all you have to do is the following TWO things.. but be sure you do BOTH:

To Win a Weekend Stay At the Ritz-Carlton Kuala Lumpur, please complete STEPS 1 and 2:

1. ‘Like’ The Ritz-Carlton, Kuala Lumpur’s Facebook Page, and on the Ritz Carlton Fanpage Wall, tag yourself and the person whom you would most like to bring with you, on any of the images already on that Facebook page.

2. ‘Like’ CC Food Travel‘s Facebook page, and on the CC Food Travel Fanpage Wall, Write and complete this slogan “I like dining at the Ritz Carlton KL because……. ”

NOTE: We will pick the winner only if you have completed both Steps1 and 2. GOOD LUCK!

We found a fabulous new place for Cendol!

James Cendol on Old Klang Road does some great Cendol indeed!

This spanking new cendol joint (only 6 months old) is situated next to Lee Chong Wei Sri Sentosa Sports Complex (map attached at the end of post), on Old Klang Road. Cumi stumbled upon it, as usual, on one of his drives around town. The good thing about the location of James Cendol, is that there is ample free carpark and you can sit for as long as you like, in comfortable, breezy surroundings, unlike some cendol stalls where you have to squeeze into parking and stand around in the heat, eating and sweating into your cendol.

Lee Chong Wei Sri Sentosa Sports Complex

striking venue.. you can’t miss it

This cendol originates in Sitiawan, and if you ask the Sitiawan folk they will probably tell you that Sitiawan cendol is the best.. ever. And if you keep prodding, they will tell you that James Cendol is the best in Sitiawan;) The original James Cendol stall from Sitiawan is situated right at the entrance to a Hindu temple on Jalan Lumut – within a walking distance from The Store supermarket or Uncle John Cafe in Sitiawan, if you ever go there and want to visit the original shop.

soft, fluffy green stands of cendol

James himself is an amicable fellow. He was patient and all smiles as I asked him to pause this way, and that way, and ‘show me all his apparatus’ so I could take a good photo. A very cool guy, all decked out for the part too, I must say. I’ve never seen a more smartly dressed cendol man. Ever.

James, the man!

Green, fluffy and soft strands of pandan infused cendol that is served up nice and icy cold in fresh coconut santan(milk). The coconut is so fresh, you can see them grating it, old school style, at James Cendol.

the grater

the coconut

the coconut gets the grater

The cendol strands themselves are made fresh everyday and do not contain any preservatives, and that’s why the texture is so great. I love my cendol with pulut and red bean.. tastes heavenly! At RM3.00 per bowl, it’s obviously not the cheapest of Cendol in the Klang Valley, but the quality and flavour is totally worth the money. They add just enough salt to their cendol which really enhances the flavour of the coconut milk. They also do goreng pisang and rojak here. And oh, some rather tasty ice cream potong too. Perfect in this sweltering heat!

my favourite way of eating cendol – cendol, pulut and red bean

goreng pisang (banana fritters)

ice-cream potong .. cendol flavour

Verdict? A terrific place for Cendol. We will be back with friends and family in tow, the next time. For the lucky folk of Bangsar, James Cendol will be opening a new branch soon in that area.  The owners will be starting up a restaurant called SIMPLY SPICE opposite the new UOA building at Dataran Maybank in Bangsar starting on the 16th of February. James Cendol will be served here.

 MAP TO JAMES CENDOL, OLD KLANG ROAD:

Being frugal is all well and good, but man cannot live by RM5.00 dollar Chinese fried noodles alone. Especially during black-truffle season.

Time to indulge.

Tuber melanosporum vittadini. Food of the gods.

Aren’t you happy it’s the holidays?

Each kind of truffle has its unique perfume and aromatic signature. Many attempts have been made to describe the taste, but let’s just say.. none very satisfactorily.

How does one describe heaven? 

Tough indeed.